In search of Finnish roots/Tendencies over the borders

Tendencies over the borders

Footwear, woolen socks

The socks of Komi people. SU 4816:64. NBA..
Striped socks, Vöyri. FBdbs.
Woolen socks. Mansi, Siberia. SU 4518:89, NBA.

In the sixteen and seventeen hundreds, only the wealthiest families wore socks. The oldest socks were in one color. White, red or grey were the first colors in women’s socks, later men’s socks were black. From the beginning of eighteen hundreds, woolen socks were made with decoration using colors. In the southwest of Finland, women also knitted socks for export in big quantities. Socks were very precious, which made them a good trade. Decorations on socks have been very international from the beginning of the first socks to the modern socks of today.

These three pairs of socks are found far from each other but they are woolen, not very old, their spirit is the same even if the decoration techniques are different.

Winter shoes and coats of reindeer and other fur materials

The moccasins, Komi people. SU 4816:76. NBA.
Shoes. Mansi, Siberia. M. Haverinen. SU 5756:16, NBA.
A pair of sealskin shoes. Korsnäs. FBdbs.
Sámi winter shoes. 1914. Water color, Samuli Paulaharju. SUK 245:2

Let’s have a look at these four different tiny fur shoes from arctic areas. What are the similarities and differences?

The fur is reindeer or caribou; 1, 2 and 3, number 3 is of sealskin. The shoes are tied up with ribbons close to the trousers; 2 and 4. In all of these shoes, shoe hay was used to keep feet warm. The sealskin shoe is made from two pieces; the bottom and upper part. All the others are done out of three pieces; the bottom, the side piece and the widening part on the front.

The form of these shoes varies according to the need for traveling in nature; The Sámi winter shoe is specially made for skiing; the top of the shoe is curved upwards to make it stay under the binding of the ski.

Fur coat. Dolgan, Siberia. VK 4934:192, NBA.
Closed reindeer coat,”Peski”. SU 4527:5, NBA.

The beginning of this studying material presented a proposition of similarities and connections between different nations, regarding the use of materials and techniques in handicrafts if the climate and nature have the same characteristics.
Both of the presented examples are arctic, nomad, reindeer / caribou fur garments and both are closed at the front and the sleeves are narrow ending with decorations. There are also variations; Decorations on the Dolgan fur coat are more delicate with many elements and the Sámi fur is decorated with pieces of colorful woolen fabrics.

Ornaments and decoration techniques

Decorated hem of a woman’s smock. Ingria. SU 4862:¬5. NBA.
The front, “Rekko” of the smock. Ingria. SU 4524:18. NBA.
An apron with traditional embroidery. Mari. SU 4860:12. NBA.

Beautiful decoration has always fascinated people. For example Salesmen moved from place to place transporting knowledge and selling decorative things. New skills were learned and added to the local tradition and like many of the beautiful stitched ornaments are found in the mid European embroidery books from Middle Age.

Traditional ornamentation in the western part of Finnish tradition

A blanket, stitched decoration. Model from1829. Isokyrö. 4717:54. NBA.
A bonnet of celadon green silk. Photo, M: Kettunen. FBdbs.
Bridegroom’s suspenders. FBdbs.

Characteristic ornamentation from the eastern part of Finno - Ugric area

A woman’s long embroidered smock. Khanty, Siberia. SU 3904:20, NBA.
”Sorokka”, a head cover of a woman. Mordovians. SU 2396:409. NBA.
Decorated hem of a woman’s smock. Ingrians. SU 4862:¬5. NBA.
”Rekko”, decoration of a smock. Udmurts. SU 5994:55. NBA.

Ornamentation from Lapland and far eastern Siberia

Shoe laces, “paulat”. SU 5475, NBA.
Married women’s cap, Skolt Sámi,”Koltta”. SU 5739:22, NBA.
Woman’s cap. Dolgan, Siberia. SU 4934:193, NBA.

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